Daraz-ka-Kaam, the invisible joining stitch of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh

Daraz ka kaam is a traditional technique used in garment making, particularly in the nawabi era of Lucknow. In this process two pieces of a garment are joined together through tiny almost invisible stitches, that are concealed in the daraz or fissure creating a decorative see-through effect. The technique requires intricate handwork, including the finishing of edges and joining of seams.

To enhance the visual appeal, tiny pieces of muslin, cut out in various shapes, are appliqued either on the surface or between the two fabric surfaces. These muslin pieces are then outlined with fine stitches, adding to the overall aesthetic. When viewed against the light, the Daraz-ka-kaam becomes visible, showcasing the meticulous craftsmanship involved.

The technique is characterized by its attention to detail in its handwork and the refinement it brings to the garment. It was a way to infuse nawabi elegance and sophistication into clothing. Different motifs were often used for joining the seams, such as phool daraz– flower, macchli daraz -fish, and patti daraz leaves, further adding to the decorative aspect of the technique.