An elegant, monochrome form of embroidery that was traditionally used to decorate clothing accessories, such as caps, collars, cuffs and sleeves, throughout Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries. Usually worked on fabric with an even weave, 16th-century blackwork used counted stitches to form small repeating geometric or floral shapes; the all-over patterns were called ‘diaper’ fillings. By the early 17th century, larger, more naturalistic designs had appeared. Sinuous stems connecting flowers and leaves, interspersed with birds, animals and insects were popular. These designs could be printed or otherwise transferred directly onto the linen, but professional embroiderers or artists were also hired to draw new patterns freehand.