AN INITIATIVE OF CRAFT REVIVAL TRUST.  Since 1999
Baluchar

Weaving

Baluchar

Baluchar

A suburban village, famous for its highly skilled silk weavers who used an indigenous technique, the jala system, to produce intricate designs on the loom. The last master-weaver of the Baluchar tradition. Dubraj, died before the end of the 19th century. The Baluchar village itself also disappeared with the shifting course of the Ganges river.

Baluchar had enjoyed the special patronage of the Murshidabad court since the 17th century and developed a school of design where stylised forms of human and animal figures were most interestingly integrated with floral and geometrical motifs in the elaborately woven material. The Nawabs and Musilm aristocrats used the material produced in raw silk mainly as tapestry, but Hindu noblemen had it made into saris in which the ground scheme of decoration became a very wide pallav, often with a panel of large mango or paisley motifs at the centre. Efforts to revive the fine Baluchar tradition have recently yielded some success.

Surrounded by smaller rectangles depicting different scenes. The sari borders were narrow and had floral and foliage motifs and the whole ground of the sari was covered with small paisley and other floral designs in restrained but bright colour schemes.

An interesting feature of earlier Baluchari saris was the stylised bird and animal motifs that were incorporated in the paisley and other floral decorations.

The silk yarn used at Baluchar was not twisted and therefore had a soft, heavy texture. The ground colours in which the cloth was available were limited, but they were permanent and are still fresh after hundreds of years.

In recent years, expert weavers in Jiaganj in Murshidabad and Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh have successfully reproduced old Baluchar saris, using the traditional jala technique.