Andhra Pradesh has long been known for its Asia rumals, usually red and black in colour, with large borders. Also known as chitti-rumals, chitti meaning “small” in Telugu, or telia rumals, telia meaning “oily”, these are square kerchiefs having geometric and figurative designs such as birds, animals and flowers. Worn as turbans and lungis by men, they are used as dupattas, or shawls, and as saris by women. Executed in the ikat technique, locally known as pagdu bandhu or tie-dyeing, these rumals have a characteristic oily smell and lustrous finish. This is due to the yarn being soaked in an emulsion of sweet oil and alkaline earth for several days before it is ready to be dyed.