Zari, Zardozi – Metalic Yarn Embroidery of Madhya Pradesh

Zardozi is a type of embroidery done with embellishment and is also known as ‘kalabatun’. It has been practiced in India since the time of Ramayana and Mahabharata.  Around 300 years ago, Zardozi, was introduced. In literal translation, Zar refers to as gold and dozi meaning embroidery.

Zardozi embroidery is done on cloth that is fixed on adda /wooden frame as per the required tension. The adda  is skilled carpenters. Blue or white colors are used to trace the pattern. Beautiful motifs of paan (derived from paan leaf), flower, patti /leaf and panchi (v-shaped motif with zari filled on the inner side and glass on outer) are made with great intricacy. After completion, the fabric is reversed and the threads are fixed with glue onto the fabric to give it a required firmness. The finished fabric is cut according to the desired shape of the product and a lining of satin fabric is stitched on the back of it. A variety of raw materials are used such as beads, pipes, gold and silver dabka/coiled purl, kinnar/edging, salma/coiled wire, sitara /sequins, badla or tilla /gold or silver flattened wire, kasab/thread and silk thread. The upper part of jutties is made by incorporating zardozi in them. Others articles that are made using zardozi are batwa /purse, bags, scarves and various clothes. The basic tools required are tracing paper, needles, adda/frame, ari /hook, scissors and a fatila /tool for wrapping wire.