Uppada Jamdani Sari Weaving of Andhra Pradesh

The Uppada Jamdani Saree is woven in Uppada in the East Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh. It is known for its light weight and reversible design—after weaving the design appears on both the sides. Finest silk with pure zari is used as the raw material to weave the saree. Designs intermingled with the basic plain ground weave are the outstanding features of these sarees. Jamdani weaving is locally called “ani butta”weaving (“ani” means shed).

The Jamdani weaving technique was introduced into this area when three enterprising weavers from Uppada travelled to the famed Jamdani center in Dhaka (now in Bangladesh) around the 1940’s and from their learning there introduced the technique of weft patterning into the weaving. Adapting the technique they created the Uppada Jamdani weave.

Earlier talapaga/ turbans and angavastrams/ upper drapes were woven in large quantities, while saris are now mainly woven. Compared to the Venkatgiri saris in the Uppada the weave in the body of the sari is slightly lighter to accommodate the weft-loom embroidered elements; additionally the warp-patterned, weighty borders of Venkatgiri are replaced by simple plain gold bands; thus both traditions remain distinct and individual.