Tila/ Dori/ Metallic Embroidery of Kashmir

Tilla refers to gold or silverzari and dorirefers to silk thread in the Tilla and Dori embroidery of Kashmir. Textiles like pherans, saris and shawls are produced using this technique.

Tilla Dozi is said to have originated in the remote Iranian village of Zari and was brought to Kashmir by Mughal rulers who patronised the craft. The embroidery uses a silver or gold thread with a needlepoint technique. It’s done typically on traditional Phirans, shawls, stoles, sarees, and other fabrics. 

Tilla embroidery was originally made with real silver or gold thread. The precious metals were hammered and flattened to form threaded wires, which were used to adorn clothing and accessories, especially for brides. However, with gold and silver prices rising and a small number of people left who could afford such expenses, the artisans opted to use silver and gold dust instead. Tilla craft continued to evolve over time, with metals such as gold and silver plated copper gradually replacing precious metals to make the embroidery more accessible to everyone.