Sozni Embroidery of Kashmir

Sozani (or suzani) embroidery is a style of embroidery from the Jammu and Kashmir region of northwest India. The motifs are created in satin stitch and are identical on both sides of the cloth, through sometimes the colours are different; for example, the dominant colour could be red on one side and blue on the other. This type of work/stitch is sometimes called “dorukha”. The most popular motifs consist of abstract geometrical designs, stylized flowers, as well as paisley patterns. They are normally worked in one or two colours, or very occasionally in three colours. Sometimes the ground cloth is woven in such a manner (such as with a compound weave) that it has different dominant colours on either side of the material to complement the different colours of the embroidery threads. Sozani embroidery is, among others, used especially to decorate shawls, and for the panels along the side of the cloth.

Mainly carried out on Pashmina and high quality raffal, Sozni is an absolutely fine and delicate needlework. The placing of the design and motifs are extremely close in proximity and smaller stitches are reinforced with individual threads of the warp. Shawls and garments are produced used this needle work.