Satgaon Quilts of West Bengal

Satgaon quilts are a type of embroidered quilt that were made in Satgaon, a town located in the Hughly district of West Bengal, India. The quilts were produced between the mid-16th century to the mid-17th century and were commissioned by the Portuguese, who exported them to Portugal and England. The quilts were made with a batting of fine cotton or layers of fabric and a ground fabric of cotton or jute, and were embroidered with naturally yellow-colored tussar silk using a combination of straight and chain stitches. The embroidery was characterized by a monochrome gold and white palette and bold, figurative imagery that often referenced a Portuguese patron, such as by incorporating a coat of arms. The designs often featured hunting scenes, European figures in Portuguese garb, marine scenes, Hindu subject matter, and mythological animals drawn from Indian and European sources. The making of Satgaon quilts was revived in recent years by some artisans who study the museum pieces and train women embroiderers to replicate them.