Phool-Patti-ka-Kaam/Applique Embroidery of Flowers and Leaves of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh

The term “Phool Patti” refers to flower and leaf applique motifs in embroidery originated in Aligarh, under the patronage of the Nawabs and spread to the Awadh region and Lucknow. This style of textile surface embellishment involves cutting small pieces of fine muslin fabric by hand and then intricately folding and stitching them onto the fabric to create beautiful patterns in the shape of flowers and leaves and geometric patterns. Techniques like pleating, twisting, and crimping are used to add texture and depth to the design The delicate folds and shapes are assembeled to form the complete floral design result and stitched on giving a textured and three-dimensional effect, to the fabric and the garments.

There are two types of Patti Karigari or Patti-work. One done on the top of the fabric in a high relief applique, and the other below the fabric presenting a shadow – called Khatao work or reverse applique. In this method, the pattern is cut and sewn on the inner side of the textile, so the surface is flat and smooth finish on the outer side. This technique gives the embroidery a subtle and refined appearance, with the design appearing as if it is a shadow on the fabric. Often additional embellishments like sequins, beads, or glitter are added to give a sparkle and  enhance the overall appearance of the Phool Patti design.

The entire process of Phool Patti embroidery is done by hand, showcasing the skill and craftsmanship of the artisans. This technique was traditionally used to embellish the neckline and back of the angarkhas, which were worn by the nawabs, as well as the shalukas and dupattas worn by the begums.

The art of Phool Patti embroidery is mainly practiced by women, who are referred to as patti-karigars.