Ikat/ Patola/ Yarn Tie-Dye Weaving of Gujarat

Patola design originates from the town of Patan, Gujarat which utilises double-ikat pattern to create beautiful textile pieces. They traditionally resist-dyed with natural dyes and then woven. The Salvi family of Patan is the only one that continues to practice this craft in Patan. This skill has been handed down to them over several generations. Making a Patola saree is a complex process. The designs have been mastered over the years. Single ikat Patola sarees are less intricate and are mainly produced in Surendranagar and Rajkot.

A less meticulous and more affordable counterpart to the traditional Patan Patola, Rajkoti Patola is characterized by its cheaper raw materials and single ikat weave. In the single ikat technique, weavers first tie and dye the warp according to the planned design and then entwine the prepared threads with a plain weft producing vibrant geometric motifs in the finished weave. Rajkoti Patola is produced in Surendranagar and Rajkot.

Rajkot Patola sarees have a distinctive style of production and preparation that is different to other forms of Patola sarees. Unlike the others, these are single-ikat sarees woven on silk, indigenous to Rajkot. The community of artisans and weavers has perpetuated this craft for 800 years. These sarees use zari on the pallu, bodice or the border. Unique motifs inspired from nature, such as parrots, flowers and elephants, are woven on them. Inspiration is also derived from the lifestyles of local communities.

The procedure for making a Patola is extremely delicate and time-consuming. The Patola from Patan is made using a double ikat technique. To cater to more lovers of Patola, a simpler version with a lower price range was invented. The Surendranagar technique uses ikat on only one side. The Single Ikat Patola of Surendranagar and neighboring villages came to the rescue of the weavers.