Paagadu Bandhu Yarn Tie Resist Dyeing of Telangana

Paagadu bandhu, also known as chitki in Andhra Pradesh is popularly known by the Indonesian term ikat. It is the process of tieing the yarns with bindings that resist dye penetration and then dyeing the yarns in desired patterns, which are then used in making a piece of cloth after removing the bindings. Generally, the entire family is involved in this craft as weaving is a full-time activity.

An innovative technology called chitkaasu has sustained production. Chitkaasu is a curved frame with pegs on which the weft threads are grouped and tied for dyeing. The crafting process uses maggam/loom, acchu/heald shaft, panni/reed, thread, and rubber tubing as tools.

The popular motifs include multicoloured patterns, geometric designs, chevron forms, and stripes. The designs and patterns are also inspired by ikat patterns of Japan, Guatemala in South America, Odisha, and also from Gujarat patola.

The increasing demand for this craft in export markets aided in spreading this technique to the neighbouring villages. Earlier, only telia rumal or square cotton cloth used to be made using this technique in the coastal town of Chirala. As the craft spread to nearby villages due to an increase in demand in export markets articles such as sari, furnishings, and yardage also started incorporating this technique.

Pochampalli specializes in silk saris of single and double ikat, Gatuppal in yardages, Chautupal and Koyalagudem in cotton and silk yardage for furnishing and shirting, and Puttapaka in fine cotton and silk saris. Bedcovers and dupatta/stoles are other articles that are made using this craft technique.