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Muga Silk Weaving of Assam

Textiles, Weaving, Spinning, Khadi

Muga Silk Weaving of Assam

Muga Silk (Antheraea assamensis)  is a variety of wild silk geographically tagged to the state of Assam in India. It is not available in any other country in the world. The silk is known for its extreme durability and has a natural yellowish-golden tint with a shimmering, glossy texture. This silk can be hand-washed and its lustre increases after every wash. The fabric absorbs ultraviolet rays to such an extent that it shields the body from its effects. The fabric is woven on fly shuttle frame looms.

Muga silk cultivation takes place mainly in the west Garo hills and partially in the west Khasi hills in Assam from the semi-cultivated silkworm Antheraea assamensis locally called Som and Soalu.

It is believed that the cultivation and weaving of Muga can be traced to the period the 12th century reign of the Ahom kings. Under their patronage and by royal decree Muga was worn only by high officers and the elite. With the looms of Muga under royal supervision known as Rajaghoria looms.

The rarity of the silk is further reinforced by the need for careful rearing of the silkworm as it cannot tolerate even minimum levels of pollution. The yarn itself has a strong resilient fiber strength making the woven Muga hard wearing with its golden luster increasing with age; and as an Assamese saying goes – it outlives the wearer.

A Muga cultivator with one acre of land yields about 400 grams of Muga silk only; with 1000 cocoons yielding 125 grams of Muga. As 1000 grams of Muga is needed to weave a single sari the products are expensive. The entire process from rearing the silkworm to the finished product taking two months to complete, with the weaving of the sari taking up one week to ten days to complete.

The Mekhla/draped long skirt and Chadar/stole made with Muga silk yarn and brocaded with auspicious colors and motifs like flowers, leaves, trees and the Bihu motifs, is the formal customary attire of upper-class Assamese women that is worn during the annual festival of Bihu and at other important festive occasions, especially marriages. Woven Muga is also worn by men as the kurta/long shirt. Presently the weavers have extended their range to saris, stoles and scarves.

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