The word kundan means highly refined gold. This technique of jewellery production uses purest form of gold to set the precious and semi precious stones like rubies, diamonds, emeralds and sapphires. Jadia Kundan is an Indian gemstone jewellery, elaborate ornaments were made in the royal state of Rajasthan to be used by rajput families. This type of jewellery is supposed to be introduced in India during Mughal era. Jadau kundan is one of the oldest forms of jewellery that exists in India even today.
Kundan Jewelry is created by setting carefully shaped, cut and polished multicolored gemstones into exquisitely designed pure gold base. Gold is self-weldable even while cold, through compressions; no soldering is required to create a solid wedge. The wedge thus formed keeps the stone at it place. The elaborate process, begins with first skeletal framework called Ghaat , thereafter the Paadh procedure takes place, during which lac or the wax is poured onto the framework and moulded according to the design. In the following Khudai process, fitting of stones or the uncut gems is done into the framework, followed by Meenakari , which involves enamelling to define the design details. Finally the gems are polished using Chillai process. A silver or gold colored foil is kept below the stone to enable reflection of light through the stone. The foil brings out the brilliance in the light reflected and therefore the stones color looks improved.
The Jadia Kundan is again finding its place in the Indian market. The patronage has vanished but the kundan work is imitated on silver for commercial purposes. The cheaper versions of the traditional jewelry are popularly used. The expensive gold and precious stone kundan jewelry still finds the place in Indian brides trousseau.