Dhokra Weaving of Bengal

Dhokra refers to a traditional practice of loin-loom weaving in which jute mats are produced in the rural regions of Uttar and Dakshin Dinajpur districts. Jute, often described as the “golden fibre,” is locally available and has long been integral to domestic material culture in these areas. The craft is predominantly practiced by women, with skills transmitted within households, where mat-weaving remains both a routine activity and a marker of everyday self-reliance.

Craft hub and artisans

The practice of Dhokra weaving is distributed across the districts of Uttar and Dakshin Dinajpur, with notable concentrations in Kushmandi, Kaliyaganj, and Itahar. Kulator village in Itahar functions as a significant centre for practitioners, alongside other important clusters such as Madhupur in Kaliyaganj, Patirajpur in Itahar, and the villages of Beldanga, Sarala, Kochra, and Mahishbathan in Kushmandi. These weaving settlements are accessible via Kaliyaganj and Raiganj, both of which are connected by rail. The region experiences a tropical climate and remains largely underdeveloped in terms of infrastructure. The winter months are considered the most suitable period for visiting, offering favourable weather and opportunities to engage with the area’s natural landscape and cultural life.

Process

Dhokra products are produced using jute that is sourced locally. The production process is labour-intensive and unfolds over an extended period. Broadly, the making of a Dhokra mat may be understood through the following stages:

• Fibre extraction: Preparation of jute fibres from the raw plant material.
• Dyeing and hand-rolling: Treatment and colouring of the fibres, followed by manual rolling to prepare them for weaving.
• Loom components: Setting up and preparing the various parts of the loom required for production.
• Weaving on the back-strap loom: Execution of the weaving process using a traditional back-strap (loin) loom.

Fibre extraction:
Jute plants cultivated locally are harvested and cut to obtain the fibres. The extracted fibres are soaked in water to soften them and left immersed for a period to allow the material to mature and acquire the desired strength and pliability. Once this process is complete, the fibres are removed from the water and sun-dried.

Dyeing and hand-rolling:
The prepared jute strands are dyed using appropriate colouring agents and subsequently sun-dried to fix the colour. After drying, the fibres are hand-rolled into long, uniform strands of the required thickness, making them suitable for use in the weaving process.

Parts of the loom:

1. Takur is a tool used to convert raw jute fibres into usable jute threads.
2. Khuti refers to two bamboo poles embedded in the ground that form the primary structural support of the loin loom. Wooden pins, also called khuti, are used to arrange and secure the warp threads on the bamboo frame.
3. Nethun is a heavy cloth wrapped around the weaver’s waist, integrating the body of the weaver into the functioning of the loom.
4. Dedlong is a thick wooden rod positioned between the jute threads, enabling their controlled up-and-down movement during weaving.
5. Jaal Kathi is a spindle-shaped wooden implement used to separate individual threads.
6. Chokh Porano is a type of loin loom designed to accommodate a larger number of threads. Within this loom, the Dondor Kathi is used to divide threads for creating patterns or designs. Textiles woven on the Chokh Porano loom are reversible in pattern.
7. Kupni is a bamboo structure around which the woven mat is wrapped as it progresses.
8. The large Beong is used to ensure strength and firmness in the weave.
9. The small Beong, also known as Olongi, is employed to create patterns and designs and is additionally used at the finishing stage to reinforce the weave.
10. Katani is used to maintain the structure and width of the mat, with its size varying according to the dimensions of the finished product.

Weaving on back-strap looms:

Dhokra mats are woven on back-strap looms constructed from bamboo and wood. A defining feature of this loom is the manner in which the weaver secures a strap or rope around the waist, thereby becoming physically connected to the loom and controlling tension through bodily movement.

The weaving process begins with the careful arrangement of soft cotton or jute threads on a bamboo frame, forming the warp. The threads are then interlaced with the weft by a single weaver. As the work advances, differently coloured threads are introduced according to the intended design, gradually producing a mat of the required length. Once weaving is complete, the mat is finished and washed before use.

Weaves and Patterns

The different kinds of weaves and patterns that are incorporated are:

• Fish
• Rat
• Flower
• Geometrical patterns
• Kit Patanga
• Pyramid
• Bird
• Shades
• House
• Diamond
• Check
• Flower
• Star
• Tree
• Zig-zag
• Stitch Patterns

Products

Traditionally, Dhokra mats were produced primarily for domestic use, serving as surfaces for sitting and sleeping. These early mats were woven without the use of colour and were characterised by a coarse texture. Standard sizes, typically measuring approximately 5 by 6 feet, were common.

In recent years, some weavers have diversified their production to include a wider range of items such as bed sheets, shawls, door mats, and floor mats. Bags are also produced, with stitching often undertaken by local tailors. The introduction of dyed fibres has led to the creation of brightly coloured mats, while a number of enterprising practitioners are experimenting with other natural fibres, including banana fibre, cotton, and wool, to develop products with greater market appeal. Additionally, some artisans possess skills in loom weaving, enabling them to produce garments such as jackets, as well as various bags and pouches.