Bandhej and Leheriya/Cloth Tie-Resist-Dyeing of Odisha

Tie-dye, Bandhani, Shibori

Bandhej and Leheriya/Cloth Tie-Resist-Dyeing of Odisha

The tie-and-dye technique practised at Rajasthan is both similar and different to the technique practised in Gujarat. At both centres it is the fabric that is tied and dyed to the design’s chosen pattern. Practitioners of this craft are also found in Odisha. A large number of colours are used because once the base colour is tied in, a lot of colours can be applied on to the fabric at different stages and then tied and removed progressively. The motifs that are used are flowers, leaves, creepers, animals, birds, and human figures in dance poses; geometrical patterns are also common.
The designs are given names like mountain design, kite design, and dol design. The dyeing is done in matching or contrasting colours. Dots are used to make up the designs. Do-rookha dyeing or different colours on either side is also practised by the craftsmen here. The lehariya technique has long lines or bands in various colours found all over the body of the sari or cloth. The lehariya cloths have their own names depending on the designs: pancharangi (five-coloured) and satrangi (seven-coloured) are common. Bandhanis are linked to various seasons, festivals and rituals for which there are specific designs and colours.



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